An Ode to Delicious Spring

Growing up in an unapologetically atheist nation, save for faint glimmers of the Yiddish and Russian Orthodox of my grandparents’ generation, a holiday like Easter wasn’t big on the radar. There was some distant talk of church service, memories of hard-boiled eggs dyed rusty-red with onion skins, the essential tall cylinder of dry, raisin-studded kulich bread, and my favorite, paskha, a creamy molded spread of sweetened, cooked farmer’s cheese. But largely it was a casual holiday, a relic of a distant religious past, and one not involving major family celebrations, at least not in our household.

As such, my first encounter with the North American version of Easter, with its parade of rainbow eggs, fluffy yellow chicks, and a gigantic bunny was somewhat of an Alice-in-Wonderland experience. Not that my then-12-year-old self didn’t appreciate the cheap egg-shaped candy. Equally exotic was the fancy Easter dinner, classics like honey-glazed ham and lamb roast with mint jelly unfamiliar yet fascinating to my immigrant taste buds.

For whatever reason, though, just like the Thanksgiving pumpkin pie which, try as I might, I still can’t bring myself to appreciate, the Easter holiday meal never quite made it into our home as a custom to be adapted. Religious considerations aside, I can appreciate the sentiment behind the holiday – a celebration of spring, new beginnings, and all things pastel-colored. And yet I feel the faithful glazed ham, just as the stodgy Orthodox kulich, doesn’t quite cut it when it comes to shaking off the winter cobwebs. Welcoming the new season, to me, means a burst of delicate freshness, bright flavors mellowed by the sweetness of newly-ripened produce. And so I decided this will be the year I’ll attempt to pay homage to Easter tradition – with a meal inspired by exploration, not convention.

I scouted seasonal offerings; wandered down farmer’s market aisles, sniffed, sampled, and prodded. The idea of a menu was taking form in my head – simple to the point of minimalism, zesty, and singing with spring. A dress rehearsal was then in order, to avoid guinea-pigging unsuspecting visitors.

Fresh green peas, vibrant and sugar-sweet, went into the blender with broth and cream and came out a silky soup, to be chilled and served in miniature teacups with a dollop of crème fraiche and a pea shoot garnish.  Next, a nod to the traditional lamb, but in the form of tender chops rather than a full-blown roast, quickly seared to let the edges caramelize to a golden crisp. In the meantime, heaping bunches of fragrantly herbal mint and pungent cilantro leaves got pulverized with lemon zest for a sauce-meets-gremolata to be served alongside, my take on the frankly odd concept of mint jelly. The lamb chops were intended to be plated up family-style, surrounded by the sides: local new potatoes tossed in a garlic butter, then steamed through and sprinkled with chives; and baby asparagus, broiled with a touch of orange muscat vinegar and satisfyingly snappy.

Last but certainly never least in my book, dessert; and while I never say no to chocolate, I felt anything too rich or sweet would overwhelm this spring meal, which warranted an equally floaty ending. So in homage to my beloved Russian paskha, as well as the Italian Easter tradition of ricotta-filled pastries and cannoli (for no other reason that I love ricotta and cannoli), I put together a sunny tart, crisp shell filled with a fluffy, tangy filling of ricotta, cream, and plenty of lemon, topped off with a layer of fresh raspberries and a few sugared lemon zest curls.

Practiced and perfected, my Easter dinner now awaited the opportunity to be presented and devoured amidst egg hunts, laughter, and good times. A feast of senses, a whirl of flavor, color, and fragrance, and a true fest of everything the blooming season has to offer – now that’s a holiday tradition I can get behind.

Kate Missine is a domestic diva, shopping addict, and worshiper of all things delicious. When she’s not chasing after her toddler son, Kate can be found stirring things up in the kitchen, scouring grocery aisles for strange ingredients, or indulging in much-needed retail therapy. She holds a B.A. in Communications and Publishing and accepts pastries and shoes as currency.

By Kate Missine