Three Fun Days in Philadelphia

Just like an overture to an opera, every trip to the East Coast should start with a visit to Philadelphia. Our passion for history, the arts, culture, music, hot fare, and cold beer influenced me and my husband to spend three days in Philadelphia, while attending a friend’s wedding in Allentown, Pennsylvania, only a one hour drive from the city of brotherly love (from the Greek: phileo – “to love”, adelphos – “brother”).

What could be more meaningful, educational, and fun than enjoying the city which played an important role in the birth of the United States, and was even once a temporary U.S. capital? It was here that the Declaration of Independence and the Constitution were signed and the glorious Liberty Bell rung proudly at the first public reading of the Declaration of Independence in July 1776.

We planned to enjoy Philadelphia’s culturally enriching attractions with a focus on their treasured history, extraordinary museums, and the thriving performance and visual arts scene as well as  the city’s outdoor life, while participating in as many walking tours (weather permitting) of this wonderful and pedestrian-friendly city with its inviting and colorful neighborhoods, award-winning restaurants, cafes, and bars.

To experience the beautiful scenery of Philadelphia to the fullest, a good place to start is at the Independence Visitor Center located at the Independence Mall. Saturday mornings only, enjoy all-you-can-eat Breakfast with Ben, our nation’s most influential founding father, chat with Ben about his life and work, and pose for pictures.

Follow up with The Big Bus Tours, which is a priceless adventure in familiarizing yourself with the highlights of Philadelphia. From an outdoor/indoor seat of this double-decker, hop on and hop off the bus with informative and delightful guides. And with 21 stops of interest throughout the city, this is a sightseer’s paradise. The 90 minute bus tour itinerary offers a spectacular overview of the very best Philadelphia has to offer, and here are just a few: The National Constitution Center, The Congress Hall, The Liberty Bell Center, The Independence Hall, The Signer Statue and Garden, The City Hall and Tower, The American Swedish Historical Museum, The Harbor Promenade and the amazing Ben Franklin Bridge, The Avenue of the Arts, Chinatown, The Fabric Workshop and Museum, Antique and Jeweler’s Rows, The Microsoft Company’s supported School of the Future for 750 kids, in grades 9-12 established in 2003 to serve as a model for 21st-century learning. (‘’Why Philadelphia?’’ The surprising answer, ‘’They asked’’).

The monumental Rocky Statue, created for the movie ‘’Rocky III,’’ is located at the base of steps leading to the world-renowned Philadelphia Museum of Art. The site of the famous run up the stairs by Rocky Balboa brings thousands of aspiring athletes of all ages and their friends with cameras to capture and mimic Rocky’s triumphant celebration. Once you reach the top, turn around for a spectacular view of the Center City’s skyline.

A marvel of stunning architecture, sculptures, and playful fountains are spread out around the city. Next we embraced the breathtaking journey along the Ben Franklin Parkway—Philadelphia’s Champs-Elysees—adorned with 109 international flags, a special gift from the United Nations in honor of Philadelphia’s bicentennial celebration. The annual Philadelphia Marathon covers a beautiful course over historic terrain, including Ben Franklin Parkway, Independence Hall, The Betty Ross House, The Liberty Bell, and the charming streets of Old City on Penn’s Landing by the Delaware River. This is as historic as it gets. So pack up your Nike’s and Just Do It! Even if you do not plan to run the marathon, comfy walking shoes are a must! Leave your Manolo Blahniks at home. Check out 900 pairs of shoes at the Philadelphia Shoe Museum for a fix.

Walk, bike, or run through Fairmount Park, the world’s largest landscaped urban park, which contains the Please Touch Museum. It also features the treasures of the colonial period, including seven dazzling 18^th century Victorian-style houses along Schuylkill River’s Kelly Drive—homes that once belonged to the city’s most eminent citizens. They currently house the rowing clubs of the Schuylkill Navy, a historic athletic organization, which hosts several major rowing regatta competitions. Jack Kelly, Princess Grace Kelly’s brother and a local rower, was awarded an Olympic Bronze Medal.

The Eastern State Penitentiary, once the most famous prison in the world, was known for its strict discipline—which was however not applied to their infamous guest Al Capone, who had a luxury room decorated with antiques and Persian rugs and enjoyed a nightly wine dinner with the warden. The prison, now a museum, is currently restoring the Biblical murals created by Lester Smith, a penitentiary inmate.

A ticket for The Big Bus Tours is valid for 24 hours and with this in mind we selected a number of attractions we were interested in revisiting, but this time on our walkable outings. You won’t want to miss the newest additions to The Independence Mall, such as:

The President’s House—the site of the original house where the first presidents George Washington and John Adams lived. It is a historic venue with magnificent reproductions of paintings and lithographs depicting the life of the people who lived and worked there.

The National Museum of American Jewish History—a Smithsonian affiliate, this is the only museum in the nation dedicated solely to exploring the lives of Jews in America. Located directly across from the Liberty Bell, the museum’s striking modern building showcases a priceless collection of donated personal and historic items. On loan from famous Hollywood icons are Ms. Barbra Streisand’s costume from the movie Yentl and Mr. Steven Spielberg’s first 8mm camera and the Schindler’s List typewriter used in Spielberg’s film (which received seven Academy Awards). The typewriter still holds the ‘’Oskar Schindler list’’ used in the movie.

The Museum’s Only in America Gallery Hall of Fame celebrates the lives and achievements of eighteen individuals who exemplify an unparalleled opportunity to aspire, achieve, and possibly change the world. It honors such luminaries as Albert Einstein, Sandy Koufax, Leonard Bernstein, Golda Meir, Estee Lauder, Jonas Salk, Irving Berlin, and Isaac Bashevis Singer, just to name a few. In the gallery’s original film, men and women of significant accomplishments such as Maestro Michael Tilson Thomas, music director of the San Francisco Symphony, were selected to offer a compelling testimony about the inductees. In speaking about Leonard Bernstein, Michael Tilson Thomas says, “In 1943, most classical audience members thought of a maestro as somebody old, serious, European. To see somebody so young, so American, so joyous, so brazen in a way, bound out on the stage and do his thing, completely blew them away. When Bernstein walked on that stage, he reached out and claimed the whole history of music and said, ‘this is the way I see it.’ That reached people in a way that no one had imagined before. He made the world come together in a way that could make them feel that this piece of music, for just this moment, is the most important thing in our lives.”

The Museum also includes additional San Francisco-centric historic facts about Levi Strauss, Adolph Sutro, Mary Ann Cohen Magnin, and Washington Bartlett—the first Jewish Mayor of San Francisco in 1883. The museum’s November 14, 2010 opening gala was hosted by Bette Midler and Jerry Seinfield, with Vice President Joe Biden delivering the keynote address. The Museum Café offers kosher dairy selections and the best homemade cheese blintzes with cherry topping.

The African American Museum of Philadelphia showcases the lives, beliefs and aspirations in 18^th century Philadelphia. Explore an interactive timeline documenting more than 100 years of entrepreneurship in the African-American community. The visit enriches the lives of visitors, especially children, using education to empower them.

The Mural Mile Walking Tour through the neighborhoods provides a behind-the-scenes look at the mural capital of the world with close to 3,000 magnificent murals. The Love Letter Train Tour known among the locals as the Proposal Mural tour, leads visitors via SEPTA Elevated Train to view 50 rooftop murals along the Market Street corridor. The project, led by renowned artist Steve Powers, collectively express the guy’s love via letter to a girl who was riding the train to work each day.

The train departs (how appropriate) from Love Park, nicknamed for Robert Indiana’s design of the LOVE sculpture which overlooks JFK Plaza and Love Fountain. It is the most popular photo-op location for the romantics at heart and may serve as your future Valentine’s Day card. Asked why the letter O in LOVE is crooked, the thrice married artist said, ‘’Love is not perfect.’’ To commemorate or celebrate events, the Love Park Fountain is often dyed different colors throughout the year, such as pink, for the kickoff for October’s month of breast cancer awareness, or Phanatic green—in honor of the Philadelphia Phillies winning the 2008 World Series.

The Mario Lanza Mural, a towering monument to a legendary star and Philadelphia’s native son, commissioned by the Mario Lanza Institute, is located at the corner of Broad and Reed streets. The Annual Mario Lanza Ball Weekend takes place each fall season.

Eat, Drink, and Be Philly is hosted at the most lavish and unique setting of the Reading Terminal Market, one of America’s largest and oldest farmers markets since 1892. Today, the market is a one-stop shop for meal inspiration and home to more than 80 independently-owned small businesses representing a great diversity of nationalities. It’s a true foodie’s extravaganza! More than 100,000 Philadelphians and visitors pass through the Market every week. And as tempting as this gastronomic journey is, save room to savor Le Bus Bakery’s delicious pastries and the world famous Bassetts butterscotch vanilla ice cream. Check online for a complete schedule of cooking classes, guided tours, and info.

Philadelphia does not sleep, so you can always find a place to dig in at a beer establishment. The city which gave birth to the TV sensation, American Bandstand, continues to party nightly. Get your shoes in gear and walk to the vibrant, hip, and delicious nightlife of concerts, theaters, cafes, and restaurants with the most passion for fashion at Rittenhouse Square, and lead the way to the popular Yards Brewing Pub and the best dining spots. Taste the regional fare at the five-star City Tavern, prepared by  famous chef Walter Staib, host of the PBS award-winning program, A Taste of History, to enjoy authentic, traditional American cuisine in historic ambiance (also perfect for Thanksgiving Day celebrations).

Dine at Pho Cali – the best Vietnamese restaurant in the city—or Cuba Libre Restaurant and Rum Bar, with authentic Cuban cuisine in a charming ambiant setting. A must-try is Jim’s Steaks, home of the famous Philly Cheesesteaks. You can’t go home without trying one (or two). Enjoy an eye-opening lunch at Table 31, home of the world’s largest LED video wall at the Comcast Center Building—the tallest in the city—which features a dramatic eight-story ‘’Winter Garden’’ and an energy-saving ‘’glass curtain’’ that wraps around the building, allowing 360 degree views of Philadelphia’s urban landscape. It incorporates eco-friendly technologies and is the tallest ‘’green’’ building in the country.

The latest hot spot winning national attention is Talula’s Garden—considered the hardest reservation to get  in America. The reason? Executive Chef Michael Santoro’s uniquely innovative dishes and the store-cum-restaurant’s tiny size. Ask for your hotel’s concierge to assist with reservations. The Frankford Hall, whose famous chef Stephen Starr is the food network’s Top Chef, serves Bavarian influenced cuisine and mostly German beers, including many offerings on tap. After dinner, visit the Vango Skybar and Lounge, one of the city’s newest hot spots with an amazing upstairs deck, complete with oversized beds ad outdoor seating. Cheers!

Stay in a restored 18th century mansion, now an intimate boutique, at The Morris House Hotel. Their restaurant, M, whose chef who creates small plates with Italian and Argentinean influences, boasts well-deserved accolades.

A number of hotels in the city participate in ‘’Art and About’’ in Philadelphia, with offers of special packages for hotels and tickets to the museums. Create your own art-tasting programs in order not to miss the highlights of November’s entertainment repertoire in the city.

Worth a splurge: Staying in the city’s centrally located hotels. No need for car.

Don’t bother:Dressing up to the nines. All you’ll need are comfortable shoes and casual attire.

Wish I packed: A pair of long distance binoculars.

Don’t miss: Standing at awe of the “Dream Garden” mosaic at the Curtis Center created by Louis Tiffany and Maxfield Parrish using 100,000 pieces of favrile glass in some 260 colors.

Coolest souvenir: Something money can’t buy—the Philadelphian’s warm hospitality and our photograph with the LOVE sculpture in the background.

Philadelphia is certainly on my list of the ten best cities to return to in the not too distant future. With the recent addition of the amazing Barnes Museum, which houses one of the most well-known 4,500-piece collections of impressionists and early modern paintings, including 181 Renoirs, 69 Cezannes, 59 Matisses, and 46 Picassos among many other masterpieces, estimated by some to be worth $20 billion, it is not goodbye to Philadelphia for me, its au revoir.

For more information about travel to Philadelphia, visit www.visitphilly.com or call the Independence Visitor Center, located in Historic Philadelphia at (800) 537-7676.

Lina Broydo immigrated from Russia, then the Soviet Union, to Israel where she was educated and got married. After working at the University in Birmingham, England she and her husband immigrated to the United States. She lives in Los Altos Hills, CA and writes about travel, art, style, entertainment, and sports. She hardly cooks or bakes, not the best of ‘’balabostas’’ her beloved beautiful Mom, Dina, was hoping for. Therefore, she makes reservations and enjoys dining out.   

By Lina Broydo